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John Lobb is a highly respected manufacturers in Northampton, a city that became famous as a shoemaking capital in the 17th century. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory continues to uphold the craft techniques developed in the Victorian era.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For example, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, plastic patterns are made, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife striking the cutting table. With feather knives, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is carefully restricted, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees often handle many designs in a single day, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only slightly more than half of the leather is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The range combines iconic staples with contemporary tweaks. The classic City II model, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen double monks gained longer straps and a reinforced sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in 1950, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah sneakers, which are produced yearly in a mix of colors and materials.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb continues to be one of the pillars in the British footwear industry.
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